Lace is back at the centre of bridal collections this season, but in a far quieter register than a few years ago. In place of glittering appliqué scattered over tulle, the lace being shown now looks as though it has been kept carefully and handed down: matte, densely woven, larger in motif, and finished with an edge you are meant to notice.
Matte rather than shining
The difference lies in the finish of the cloth. Guipure — lace worked without a tulle ground, its motifs joined by fine bars — has weight and an almost sculptural quality; laid over a simple cut, it carries a gown entirely on its own, without a single crystal. Chantilly is its opposite: fine, airy, its pattern fading towards the border. Both are appearing without metallic thread and without sheen, and most often in shades that stop just short of pure white, because that warm, slightly subdued tone is what reads as patina.
The cut such lace asks for
Lace with this much character wants a calmer silhouette around it. That usually means a high or gently rounded neckline, narrow long sleeves made from the lace alone with nothing beneath them, and a back left open — coverage at the front, openness behind, one of the most recognisable lines of the season. The shape stays close to the body or opens only slightly; a full skirt would compete with the drawing of the lace. A row of small covered buttons down the spine and a scalloped edge following the neckline or hem are ornament enough.
What to look at during a fitting
- Placement. On a well-cut gown the pattern continues across the seams, and the larger flowers do not land where you would rather not draw the eye.
- The edge. A scalloped border left unhemmed sits more softly against the skin than a cut edge — check it at the wrist and around the neck.
- The lining. The same lace over a cool lining and over a warmer one looks like two different fabrics, so compare them in daylight.
- Comfort. Denser cotton-blend lace has almost no give, so the fit through the shoulder and elbow has to be exact.
The great advantage of a gown like this is that it ages slowly; in photographs ten years from now, no one will be able to place it in a particular season. We try these gowns on unhurriedly, by appointment and in private, in sizes 34 to 44, and the same laces sit beautifully on cuts made for expectant brides. Gowns may be rented or bought, and a rental contract is valid across the border for brides celebrating in Serbia or Croatia, or travelling home from abroad.
